Not on topic but a point concerning Ford parts and Mazda cars.
Given the two companies are in bed with one another I wonder how many parts are interchangeable?
Hi All
This motocraft oil looks remarkable, it has a higher viscosity index than anything I’ve seen before. For those who have low temperature gear troubles this looks the business.
Motocraft presumably don’t make oil themselves so where do they get it from?? From the published figures I have calculated the viscosity at 0°C which is the important factor for cold gear boxes.
As you can see this Motocraft stuff is a thick as MT90 at 100°C and as thin as MT85 at 0°C.
| Gear Oil | Grade | Viscosity cSt@0°C | Viscosity cSt@100°C | Viscosity Index |
| Redline MT90 | 75W-90 | 698.3 | 15.6 | 185 |
| Redline MT85 | 75W-85 | 466.09 | 12 | 172 |
| Redline MTL | 70W-80 | 410.15 | 10.6 | 183 |
| Castrol SMX-S | 75W-85 | 561.04 | 11.5 | 164 |
| Motocraft | 75W-90 | 465.04 | 15.4 | 211 |
Hi RB,
I was looking at it too and put the figures into the table for the other oils.
Unfortunately there isn’t enough manufacturer’s data for the new Castrol Syntrans (these are the manu figures) for me to decide whether to change it out or not but the Ford does have a lower pour point than anything else, what do you think?
I imagine there will be other factors such as any friction modifiers etc but I see it is GL4 not GL5 which is also interesting,
|
Castrol Syntrans
75W90<o:p></o:p> |
Ford 75W90
WSDM2C200C<o:p></o:p> |
Redline MT 90
75W90<o:p></o:p> |
Mobil SHC
75W90<o:p></o:p> |
Lucas
75W90<o:p></o:p> |
|
| GL Type | 4 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
| 0C cSt | |||||
| 40C cST | 76 | 90 | 120 | 142 | |
| 100C cSt | 11.4 | 15.4 | 15.6 | 15.9 | 18.4 |
| Pour point degreesC | -51 | -54 | -45 | -48 | -39 |
| Viscosity index | 211 | 185 | 140 | 145 |
Hi Rich M
I have assumed that the figures for Syntrans are the same as for SMS-X that it supposedly replaced. The 11.4 cSt figure is actually less than the 11.5 quoted for SMX-S which is a 75W-85 grade oil. This is curious because this is below the min for SAE90 which is 13.5cSt, so Castrol are misleading us or they have published the wrong data! The Ford 75w-90 oil at low temps looks very much like Redline MT85. Whether it’s worth changing to it I really don’t know.
I’ve found another oil Castrol BOT 130 M which has almost identical figures to the Ford oil and is also GL4. It appears to be an OEM oil and not availble in the retail market.
Hope this helps.
R-b
Hi there, have read this topic with interest.
I drive a 92 1.6 Eunos and I did initially struggle with the revs/clutch but it becomes second nature after a while…and you are quite correct, you do not learn how to drive the car sitting in traffic queues.
What helped me with the clutch/revs problem was the fact that I can actually hear the engine quite well with roof up or down in a mark 1 - I just wonder if the newer models are that much more sound-proofed so you can’t actually hear how you are driving very well. I used to slightly over rev after changing up and it has taken a little while to stop doing it.
I also changed my pedal rubbers, mine were probably 20 years old! I also like to drive with my socks off - surprising how more ‘in touch’ you feel with the car…you can really feather it along (or not).
All the best,
MARTIN
Another quick update…I had the gearbox oil changed today to the Motorcraft fluid. So far, so good - straight off the ramp, the gear changes were noticeably smoother. I guess the real test will be a completely cold start tomorrow morning, and I will give it a few hundred miles to ensure the new oil is circulating, but so far, so good 
EDIT: Glad to report this morning, the first shift into second gear was smoother than ever before. Even when cold the box was much improved, and after the box warmed up, the gears engaged without any hint of the baulkiness they had before. Most impressed 
I tried getting this oil from my local Ford dealer this afternoon and I may as well have been talking to a brick wall.
After a 10 minute wait while the one parts man talked on his mobile he didn’t really want to know unless I had the reg number of the Ford car or type of Ford car I wanted the oil for 
.
Has anyone got the part number of this oil so they have no excuse not to serve me? I’m going back tomorrow with a print out of the spec sheet for the oil but a part number will be even better.
Help!!! 
Martin
Try this…XT-M5-QS
Or scroll through this list http://www.scribd.com/doc/19215649/Motor-Craft-Ford-Oils
Mick
Anyone know how much oil is required for the Mk2.5 6 speed gearbox?
Thanks Mick. I had seen that part number but wasn’t sure if it was in use over here by Ford of Europe, thought it may be a Ford of America part number only.
I’ll see what they say at the dealer tomorrow.
Martin.
Well my 6 speed Mk2 took 2 Ltrs, same for the Mk2.5 I believe.
Just take a peek at this guide for the 6 speed, you don’t want to undo the wrong plug http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/16199.aspx
Mick
Use part number WSD-M2C200-C, I think the XT*** number is a Ford of America number.
Picture of bottle and spec:
A big THANK YOU to all who have answered about the oil part number. I’ve printed it off and will be sticking it up the left nostril of a Ford partsman tomorrow 
.
Thank you again, I knew I’d get an answer on here
.
Martin.
Castrol fully synthetic Syntrans 75W90 GL4 is also very good, over the counter at Halfords about £12 litre, for anyone without a helpful Ford dealer handy.
That warning post about the 6 speed box only applies to earlier Mk2/2.5 box btw. Mk3 is different for anyone doing that one and there’s also oil in the turret on Mk3 (not in the earlier box) so you need 2.1L + 150ml. An oil syringe from Machine Mart or similar is very worthwhile for about £10 if you’re doing it yourself. Consider the back axle too as it only takes a few more minutes once jacked up, but it needs GL5 oil.
Thanks Mick for the info 
I was going to post “get the clutch adjusted” until I got to that bit in the thread
for all non mk3 owners, changing the shift boots (both) really helps the gearchange. They are about £25 each from autolink but well worth it
for the top gaiter I’ve gone for one of doctor mx fives silicone ones which you can find here
mine’s a 6 speed mk2.5
I don’t drive a 6 speed, but that shouldn’t make a difference.
Have you tried a racing change? It needs practice, but it may help.
Dip the clutch & go to neutral, keeping your foot on the accelerator the whole time, then release the clutch, then dip again & engage higher gear.
This has the effect of keeping the revs up so you don’t get that jerk.
It needs to be done quickly, hence the practice.
Sorry for all this if you know what a racing change is.
Sheila
Do you mean when changing down - ie. a lower gear? I think your wording reads as when changing up.
This has a few names, such as ‘sustained rev’ or ‘matched rev’ gear changing. Then you can get into double de-clutching and also on to the heel & toe technique (all of which I use constantly, which one depending on the circumstances).
No. Most people blip the accelerator when changing down, it helps protect the clutch, reducing wear.
I’m not following you, are you talking about blipping when changing up or down? Only your wording could be taken to apply to either.