I have a 2014 25Y Anniversary car with less than 30,000 miles.
Over the last couple of months the central locking has only worked intermittent. It might be ok for a few days then stops working so I have to use the key. Is this something I can sort myself or is it a Dealer job?
Please do not take offence, but could it be as simple as the battery in the Keyfob?
Happened to me before and also on our Mazda 2 yesterday on BOTH key fobs.
They are CR1620 (3V).
Very easy to replace. 
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As above to check first re battery, also sometimes the battery connections need a little fettling to get a good contact. Usual symptoms are needing to press the buttons more firmly.
If all ok with the above then it could be a failed door lock actuator. A good few have reported failures, especially earlier NC’s.
Is it the drivers side only door or both?
My driver’s side actuator started to fail intermittently, and as others have reported it seemed to fail when the sun got that side of the car. I went through the colder months and all ok, the following summer it started playing up again. A secondhand actuator purchased and fitted sorted the problem.
Not saying it’s the case with your car but one to check on.
Hi Guys,
Replaced the key fob battery a few weeks ago, made no difference. Its the Drivers door. Is replacing the actuator fairly easy?
I did a guide to replacing the actuator on the NC, I’ve even found the link but sadly it doesn’t work due to the migration onto the new platform.
I have pictures I can put up later and how to fit, give me some time to sort it.
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Mines started doing it on sunny days with sun on the door, mines the passenger side.Had same problem last year but seeing only use it every few weeks and the chance that it’s also a sunny day made me put it to the back on my list of jobs to do which never gets any smaller.
Thanks MickAP that would be appreciated.
Strangely enough another try today came up with this I posted around 2 years ago.
Please note it’s for the removal of the NC1 door cards and actuator. The guts the other side of the door card and actuator will be pretty much the same on later models (NC2>)
The door card on NC2 onwards I’ve never removed (never owned) so perhaps someone else can chip in with that, there can’t be much difference.
Hope this helps but of course before going to the trouble of removing and buying a new unit, or if available SH (bit rare to find on ebay etc) do make sure that this is your particular problem. What you’re experiencing suggest it is the actuator at fault.
That is great from MickAP.
Had my doors cards off a couple of weeks ago.
3.75.
Exactly the same as described but the top one by the handle you have to commit and pull hard on the cover.
I tried teasing, but in the end went for it.
The whole of the front cover (Handle) has to be pulled off and then you can get to the screw holding the handle on.
I thought perhaps the silver insert in the handle may come off and then get to the screw, but NO.
You “may” loose a couple bits of the plastic, but it all goes back on securely enough.
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I have just had a reply from Mark @ MX5 parts & he is recommending lubricating the Belden cables & lock mechanism before buying a new unit which they can supply from Mazda for ÂŁ146 (incVAT)
They are very difficult to source second hand.
As you guys have said he concurs its a regular problem with the NC.
Worth a try me thinks, door card off just for that and some lube, just check the cables haven’t snagged also but a long shot of that happening I guess.
Finally got round to looking at this yesterday. What a pain to strip the door down. Just prising off the door pull & not damaging the plastic is difficult! Anyway couldn’t find anything snagged or stuck. Sprayed everything I could see with WD but it made no difference.
SH part like Rocking Horse S-----. So new part & extra door clips ordered from Mark @ MX5Parts.
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WD is not a great lubricant, being wax rather than oil based.
Bowden cables are cables with inner and outer cables, where the outer has to be anchored and the inner acts against it. Classic examples are bicycle brake and gear change cables.
Lubricating Bowden cables can be tricky but is a very good idea as they do get sticky with age and corrosion
Engine oil would be much better than WD.
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How much was the parts to complete this jog as I’m having the same issue on the drivers side
This is the part you need below.
Sadly there seems to be a backlog on order, so out of stock. Try the dealership, make sure you get the correct side they are handed.
Or SH and takes your chance.
BTW I fitted a SH unit when they were ÂŁ25 posted.
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I had this a while back and bought a replacement actuator off eBay. Never fitted it as during the strip down I found one end of the cable had worked its way out of its holder. Clipped it back in and it’s worked perfectly ever since.
You’ve reminded me I need to see if I can sell the unit I purchased and never used.
Buyer above then if it’s the driver side, or keep just in case.
passenger side
Almost end of winter storage so removed cover, took off battery conditioner, car started first time and all good. I leave in unlocked over winter in secure garage but on returning car and pressing Lock button, no reaction. Then tried to open boot remotely and again, nothing. Listening closely and utter silence when pressing fob. Both keys in good condition and both key batteries reading 3.02V. Interestingly i recall the same issue last Spring but it “just” worked and then in a few days use I realised everything was fine. So, I’m outside of my knowledge zone but is there some central solenoid or some such which might gradually discharge over the winter then (hopefully) re-charge in use? Or what? Any thoughts gratefully received
I had similar with my NC a few weeks ago, taxed it beginning of March ready for the road. Checked the fob operation and not much of a response, new fob battery I thought? After a few more presses it responded and everything now works fine, battery not replaced.
Last year I thought it needed a new battery but all I did was slightly bend the battery contacts inside the fob, made it work much better, instance response rather than pressing the **** out of it with very little response.