Big improvement!!
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Checked my new GoPro suction cup will stay attached to my glass wind deflector on very bumpy roads ready for my first year of track days
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Plugged a puncture in the NSR tyre on my ND. Found the tyre flat late last night. We are off to Madeira tomorrow and I didnāt want the car sitting on a flat for two weeks.
Wheel off and found a wood screw protruding from a pretty central position on the tread. The temporary plug will get me to my local tyre depot when we return where a more permanent solution can be applied.
A friend suggested pushing a screw driver into the hole, coating it in superglue and then running it in and out of the hole a few times. He recons this would give a permanent repair. Anyone tried this?
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NO! Superglue is utterly useless for this sort of thing. It was originally designed as a temporary repair for human skin! Medics still use it.
Vulcanising glue, maybe but donāt count on it alone.
As youāve done, a plug kit is much better, and with the vulcanising glue is best. I carry these in both cars as well as the Mazda/Halfords/Slime goo for non-technical SWMBO to use with the carās inflater.
I donāt use the goo, because finding and plugging the kind of puncture you described only takes a couple of minutes once the car wheel is off the ground.
But as you say, it is still important to get it checked by a professional as soon as possible.
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A thick piece of plastic will do the same thing cut into shape and sealed correct,with butyl sealā¦
As for the locks, that is nothing to do with the membrane seal missing, that is simply water in the mech and lock freezing, once its all dry spray the hell out of the lock, mech, rod hinges etc and rubber window channel guide with a good brand silicon lube spray ( DO NOT USE WD40) old school , it is no good for this,throw it in the bin, use the straw that comes with the lube spay and also spray into the outer key chamber .
The window failā¦ I guess they installed it dry, thats why it as failed , a bit of grease on the roller guides, cables and channels helps them work and protect, plus there is a way to set them up correct, so there is not to much strain/tension on the up and done.
M-m
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Cheers bud,
I paid Ā£5 more for the one I bought compared to the other I saw as the other had some rust spots on it - so I assume the cable is likely rusty, at least on the ends of it you donāt see.
My thoughts were to fully lube up the wire as much as I can prior to installation to hopefully prevent a repeat - funny itās been the divers door window both times, but the again thatās the one I and most folk would use most so does stnad to reason.
The sticky gunk on the door is still really sticky, but Iāve got other sticky stuff to use as well.
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We connected them up to a battery before install the grease up the wheels,guides and inner cables, goining up and down a good number of times applying lithium grease to get deep into the outer cable to lube and protect, then once in place, apply grease to the other outer guide and silicon spray the the rubber guide from the 1/4 light top to bottom, also spraying all the locks and mechs, rods and knuckles, but there is a way to set everything back up once everything is in place again for them to work lovely and smooth, I will do a guide and vid of the whole process and bang it on the forum and channel for everyone, as its the same with them all with setting up.
M-m
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Good clean up yesterday after a couple of runs at the weekend. Roads pretty much dry but car had quite a lot of white salt dust on it. Products used - Bilt Hamber Surfex HD on the wheels and arches (1:10 dilution), Bilt Hamber Touch-Less Autofoam, Autoglym Fast Glass, Car Pro Perl on the plastic and tyres (1:3), Bilt Hamber Auto QD (1:5) on the paintwork. Started using the Auto QD a few months ago and really impressed how it easily buffs up and how slick the paint feels. Thought the car looked particularly good in the sun.
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An excellent choice of products! Iām a big Bilt Hamber fan - straightforward products that justā¦ work.
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Couldnāt agree more. I also use their rust inhibiting products under the car and Atom Mac on bare metal (especially the discs after a wash), as well as their double speed wax, Korrosol, clay bars, etc. Being able to dilute a lot of products makes them very versatile and cost effective too. I do use products from other manufacturers but Bilt Hamber is very hard to beat.
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Teinās good choiceā¦ i had a set of their coil overs on my Corolla T Sport, they were great.
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Showing the NC some love today, further rust prevention and a bit of fettling to the back box which Iāve now refitted.
Waiting for a delivery of brake pads.
Love was shown to Mrs A, yesterday I treated her to a day out in Bakewell and later a pub meal.
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Which exhaust are you running? Sorry if itās already been mentioned elsewhere.
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Havenāt a clue, sorry. Already on the car when i bought it. Itās very sporty sounding in a nice way.
The exhaust was custom made 
That is a fantastic example you got there mick 
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Do we know who by?
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no
It really is a mystery exhaust this! 
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Thatās after I cleaned it. It was greased with white lithium grease before it was put back. The gear now is much smoother.
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